And now for something never attempted in this blog... an interesting story:
Last Sunday, I took up an invitation from Vikram, one of my
old students and a present tutor in the current PBL course, to see the collection of Hindu Deities that he has in his home. I had seen them on FB and was intrigued, so
I had asked him to take me to his home.
He arranged for us to meet as he came off night shift at Mercy and we
would be on our way. When I asked where
we were going, he was secretive and coy, “You will see when we get there.” We took a minibus to the bus park and started
to head south, though he lives eastward, on the coast. We had to sit in the very rear and for a
tallish guy this is the roller coaster seat ..… every bump in the road is a
jarring jolt and the accompanying bump launches you from your seat and into
the roof!
After an hour or more we were turning on the Timehri Road to
the airport ..… and, a first for me ..... the bus went right into the village and not
the airport.
The road was now a rural, dirt one.
We stopped and Vik gestured me to get out; we
were there.
At first I did not see
anything, but as we walked I saw a path.
Since I have such a keen grasp of the obvious, I figured it
was not his home. Vik told me that he
wanted to show me “everything”. (Well,
now I was sure I wouldn’t be back by lunch.) The grounds are quite large and there are many areas for all the
different functions of the temple. Here
is the old/first altar area and building, which is now used for something else which my mind only held briefly.
This was the temple which he first came to about three years ago; it saved his life in a very difficult time for him. It is known in Guyana as the Timehri Temple;
its more official name is “The Timehri Maha Kali Shakti Devi Temple”. As you can see from the Welcoming sign, it is
quite eclectic and welcoming.
Soon after we arrived we went to the large house where his
grandfather lives, and it seemed many others lived there too.
Here is a picture of
Vik in his nursing outfit and his grandfather, not in his priestly
robes.
I learned that Parsram Samaroo is Vik’s adopted grandfather. They first
met on August 21st 2016, the day Vik and his mother first went there. From this first day, says Vik, "the deities started to manifest
through my body" and Parsram treated Vik like a grandson from then on. Parsram is the founder of the temple, which he started about 50 years
ago.
Vik soon “abandoned” me as he was helping to prepare for the
worship at 10:30; it was now 8:30. I sat down on a veranda with a man and two of
his sons. He had arrived earlier
because he wanted to be healed from wounds he suffered from falling off
his motorcycle. There were quite
extensive, and they weren’t healing. He and his sons were quite clear that the
reason was witchcraft (or evil obeah).
Winston, the father, was a quite devout Roman Catholic who attended mass
regularly and knew "every priest in Guyana".
He was comfortable seeking healing here and felt no tension between
faiths. We will return for his healing
ceremony.
I had to admit that
if I had just fallen and those were my wounds weeks later,
I’d start thinking about witchcraft, too.
I have also mentioned the Guyanese tolerance of another’s religion (if
not race or politics); I was not surprised by Winston’s perceived lack of
doctrinal conflict.
Almost every
Guyanese person, educated or not, who has an illness that lasts more than a short time, has their favorite “bush medicine” treatments.
Yes, Guyana is modern in so many ways, but
there are spirits everywhere – good and evil
https://www.guyanaguardian.com/after-killing-over-a-dozen-people-guyanese-are-afraid-of-this-tree/
In the past, I have shared the link above with my
students before our annual National Psychiatric Hospital trip, as the tree is on the way, and we usually stop there -- and most will not even get out of the bus!
Dr.
Tony got out and touched the tree once -- and he has never been seen in
Guyana again!
(I think that Tony’s resemblance to Narain, Parmeshi’s brother,
is purely coincidental .....)
After chatting with Winston, I was told there was a
breakfast prepared for me. They have a
partially vegetarian lifestyle that I found interesting. They fast from meats on Friday, Saturday and
Sunday, but on the other days there are no food restrictions. So I was offered a nice tomato-cucumber sandwich
and slices of fresh avocado. I was
sorry that I had had a big plate of rice and beans before I left Mercy. Because, as everywhere, the
expression, “I really don’t want anything; I had breakfast earlier,” means nothing!
The pictures below are from the second meal we had before we
left and right after all the members of the congregation had received a bag of
fruits and sweets at the end of the worship.
I think these were the offerings presented to the deities during the
service.
I was well fed.
The pictures below are from the main altar in the temple, both Christian and Islamic. Certainly
the Christian Deity was worshiped in the service and traditional hymns were
sung, such as, “What a friend we have in Jesus”.
There was also at least one specific acknowledgement of Islam and Allah.
When I asked Vic’s Grandfather he said, “
Of course, we
worship all the deities of the world here; how could we not? They too are manifestations of our one
God.”
This synchronicity,
as in the Jungian meaning of things not connected by event but by meaning, was
present throughout the Temple in the different rooms and in the rituals. I admire the attempt and am left a little
overwhelmed with the actual practice.
There was also the symbol of
the Lutheran Church in Guyana
Later, I saw Vik again and he
was in his service robes. When I asked
him his role in the service, he was elusive and kept saying, “You will see.” His outfit marked him as a devotee
practitioner who had gone through many trials and tests. It didn’t seem that there was a name for
this position, but it was obviously important to Vik and the community.
I am not sure whether it was because I was identified with
Vik, but everyone was friendly and willing to answer any of my many, many
questions. (I really had never had an experience
like this. My previous Hindu services
were not as immersive and visceral.)
There was no one who told me not to do anything or go anywhere. I was quite amazed by the lack of suspicion, when obviously I am not Guyanese or a Hindu and clearly a first-timer. I can only imagine what the response would
be from one of our Canadian Churches of first time non-white foreigner
wandering around one of our churches.
This openness and apparent transparency (though not transparency of meaning) continued throughout my entire
experience as you shall see.
I was given the best seat in the house in the centre front
row. I was once asked to move by Vik’s
grandfather to where the musicians were.
This wasn’t because I didn't belong there -- but he wanted me to
move to a spot which had a bench to put my water bottle and camera. I kept thinking there would be a rule about
pictures in the temple, during service or healing rituals. But for me, at least, there was never a moment when
I or my camera were frowned upon. If anything,
I was the one who was uncomfortable with my camera!
Leader Parsram Samaroo is given much respect as he is the
founder and also a community leader and healer. People told me how important he was in
their lives and/or the lives of their families.
Many of the worshippers asked for his blessing, with incense and the same
supplicant ritual as offered to the deities.
He remains a truly humble man.
Parsram exuded what I think Virginia Satir, a renowned family therapist,
called all great therapists, a “non-anxious presence”. His presence invited people to come and talk
to him and be safe.
As the service started, I could see that Vik was the leader (he had the microphone!) and his grandfather was seated quietly off to the
side. And then, he started to
chant. I didn’t even know he could
sing. As it turned out he has been
preparing himself to be a priest and is one of two who are next in importance to
the high priest. Vik tested my disbelief
in that all his chanting in Hindi was new to him after he first came: both the
chanting and the words. (And I have
trouble with 20 student names!) A video
of him chanting is linked below. Some
who have heard me read know my voice gets louder, stronger and deeper when I
read in public – sort of a wrath of God. The change in Vik’s voice was even
more remarkable.
The service itself seemed to
consist of hymns and prayers to the major deities in the temple. Each deity would be addressed with food and
flower offerings and dancing. Vik put
me in the front row and not on the main altar part as there was going to be exuberant dancing. (I told him that I was not worried unless I
had to do any dancing – exuberant or not.)
Each of the deities was worshiped with incense and humble supplication
while the chanting was going on. There were sections dedicated to Jesus
and Allah. This eclecticism wasn’t limited to non-Hindu faith
groups; it also embraces the traditional Hindu Gods who aren’t specifically acknowledged during worship.
Vik’s personal deity is Parmeshri
who was the first deity to appear to Vik in a dream; it was she who set him on
his path to health and priesthood.
I asked about all her arms. Vik responded that her first manifestation was at a time of terrible conflict and she
needed those arms to defend her people. It was a female who fought and defended them!
Parmeshri is a manifestation of Kali and the people identify her
with the Great Goddess, one of whose many habitations is on the
snowy peak of the same name which stands out prominently in the range of
mountains separating Kullu from Chamba District. Her home is visible for many
kilometres and the Gujjars, the nomadic herdsmen of the hills, give adoration to
her when they bring their herds to the higher slopes for the summer grazing. Looking towards the peak, the nomads bow several times and then immolate a goat in her
honour.
Before the service began, there were many worshipers who offered prayers, with incense and flowers, before many deities.
I was
impressed with the commitment and reverence that was shown by all the
worshipers; it wasn’t self-conscious or showy, just simple and devout.
Others who were sitting in
the front prepared the flowers and food offerings that would be placed at the deities' feet.
After the chanting and prayers and offerings,
the music would start and some in the congregation would get up and dance in front
of the statue of a deity.
Vik told me
that each Deity has their own particular form of dance, but to my untrained eye, they all looked the same -- though the
dancers each had their own style.
This woman is Vik’s mother
who came with him and is now part of the community. In the left picture, she is greeting her son as a healer. At right, she is hold the
offering of food and flowers during the chanting, prayers and singing.
This woman was the
most and energetic dancer.
I asked Vik later if
she was the "designated dancer". He shook his head.
I should have videoed
more, but I forgot to bring a second battery
as I was originally expecting to be back before lunch.
Each of the dancers
received attention from a woman who sprinkled them
with what I imagine
was a holy water mixed with herbs.
I am guessing it was
a blessing and protection in ecstasy.
The whole service
was carried out in a solemn and respectful way. All the dancers were welcomed and supported
to come forward. And when the music
stopped, so did the dancers -- almost all the time; some took a moment to compose themselves.
The service was over and almost everyone was staying; I
thought they were just eating their fruit and sweets. But I was wrong.
They were waiting for the healing part of the worship to begin.
And you will have to wait, as well, for Part Two.
Thanks Vik for introducing me (and now my readers) to many new experiences in this land of Guyana.
